The Glenisle has a great tradition in hospitality – it was once the village jail! These days, it’s the best place to stay on Arran – stylish and friendly with views across Lamlash Bay to Holy Island. Outside, there’s a pretty terrace for lunch in the sun. Inside, you find stone walls, roaring fires, then books and games in a stylish sitting room. It’s quirky, too – part of the bar was rescued from an old paddle steamer, and the hotel holds a Christmas festival at the end of November. There are two restaurants – one overlooking the garden, the other with mirrors on one wall – and the food hits the spot nicely: perhaps fish chowder with home-smoked mussels, coffee-crusted haunch of Arran venison; dark chocolate delice with walnut ice cream. Smart, airy rooms have comfy beds, colourful throws and robes in cute bathrooms. Two at the front look out to sea, the suite has a claw-foot bath overlooking the bay. As for Arran, it’s a small-scale version of Scotland: mountains to the north, lush farmland to the south, then sandy beaches and the odd castle waiting on the coast. A perfect island base.