At five o’clock on Friday evenings there’s only one place to be in Masham: the tap room at the White Bear, home of Theakston’s beer. The great and the good gather to mark the end of the week, the odd pint is sunk, the air is thick with gossip. Interior design is 1920s trapped in aspic: red leather, polished brass, a crackling fire. But there’s only half the story. Slip next door and discover this welcoming inn. There’s an smart dining room, stripped boards in the bar, a flower-filled terrace for lunch in the sun. Stylish rooms occupy the old Lightfoot brewery and come in contemporary style, with warm colours, comfy beds, chic new bathrooms and attractive prices. Some have views across town, the penthouse is vast and open to the rafters. There’s a courtyard for guests, a sitting room, too; staff will bring drinks if you want privacy and peace. Good food waits in the restaurant, perhaps king scallops, duck with red cabbage, treacle sponge pudding. Tours of the brewery are easily arranged, with a pint of your choice at the end. Don’t miss the beer festival in June or the sheep fare in September.