The old drovers’ inn remains staunchly, reassuringly traditional – but offers wines that have come, over the years, to rival the hand-pumped Yorkshire ales. There’s even a ‘cave’ for functions and private-party tastings. Expect nooks, crannies, beams and crackling fires, and a stylish restaurant. Thought has gone into every detail, from the antique furniture in the timbered rooms (one with a marvellous oak-panelled bar) to the fabrics and the colours. Menus change with each season and include dishes ranging from filo ‘moneybags’ of seafood in lobster sauce – the fish comes fresh from Fleetwood – to their own Yorkshire twist on tapas (‘Yapas’!). Vegetarians are looked after and the sticky toffee pudding is legendary. Exquisite bedrooms, split between the converted barn and adjacent Sycamore House, are all different; perhaps a French armoire, a brass bed, a claw-foot bath, a private garden. All have top-quality fabrics, pretty colours, cosy bathrooms, and, in the newer rooms, a contemporary feel. The glorious up-hill-and-down-dale drive to get here is part of the charm.