You’ll be fascinated ambling round Whitby with its cobbled streets, independent shops and deliciously dark literary links – there’s a great beach and Rick Stein recommended fish and chips too. Return to the prettiest terrace in town where the first floor is yours, the beds are for conking out in extreme comfort and light streams in through sash windows with shutters intact. Peter and Lucy have good taste, original art and exquisite antiques so everywhere you look there’s something beautiful. Breakfast is hidden in your own mini fridge: bread from Bothams, jams, yogurts and proper ground coffee. Walkers can tramp straight onto the moors.