A wiggly country road leads to the heart of racing country – just five minutes off the M4. But you don’t have to be mad about horses to be seduced by the Queens Arms. The new hands-on owners run a top team, and you feel it the moment you enter. As tasty food is ferried to groups of jolly lunchers and in Barbour-wearing owners of gun dogs, the occasional champion jockey may be spotted at the bar. Families descend for roasts on Sundays; Hennessy cocktails clink with champagne glasses during Gold Cup week. The food is hearty, the portions generous and on Fridays the fish lands straight from Looe. There’s beef and Guinness pie, mussels with cream and chorizo, crab gratin with parmesan, game in season, scrumptious puds. The Queens is steeped in warmth and character, with a low-beamed bar, an intimate restaurant, an awned terrace facing west, and paddocks all around. A pity not to stay the night – and dogs get their own beds. If you like character go for the rooms in the pub. Ranging from cosy to large, they have coir floors, dark woods, deep mattresses, and lovely vibrant colours on the walls.